Idle Jets, Dome Light and Tach Light

Yesterday I fiddled with a few things.  I setup the Weber 38/38 "Outlaw" Carb to use a 50 Idle Jet (stock was 45) on the Choke Side, and a 55 Idle Jet on the other side.  Initial setup had me around 3.5 turns out on the Fuel Mixture screws.  That's about 2x what Fuel Mixture screws should be turned out on this carb per the Weber and LCE.  

I'm using a spiral adapter plate under the carb.  More on this in a moment.

The Inside (closest to the head) Idle Jet is now turned out about 1/2 turn.

But I couldn't make the carb idle with a 55 Jet in the Choke side.  Even when its screwed in almost completely.  So I opted to use a 50 on the Choke side and a 55 on the Intake side.  This is counter to what Weber and LCE say to do.  So I'm pretty sure I'll be back in there.

I'm trying to get the Idle mixture screws OUT at about 1 full turn.  Which puts them in the middle of the 1/2 turn out and 1.5 turns out that both Weber and LCE recommend.

So back to the Spiral Adapter.  This adpater's Intake side throat is smaller than the Choke side throat.  Really looks more like it was intended for use with the 32/36 Weber.  Anyway...because of this mixed throat size I think this is probably why I'm not able to run the same sized Idle jets and get the Fuel Mixture screws turned out exactly the same.  That's my guess at this point.  And it also makes me wonder if I'm actually loosing some HP's with this Spiral Adapter.  This adapter is supposed to add 5-6hp due to improved atomization of the air/fuel mixture.

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Anyway after getting that setup to be reasonably decent I resolved two nagging issues, and a 3rd one in the process.

1. I fixed the dome light to at least be operational manually.  The previous owner (some old doode) had really butchered the wiring in the truck.  Long story-Short I put a fuse in that missing connected the dome light, cleaned the contacts on the light switch and presto "Light".  I just have to resolve how to get the Automatic light working when you open the doors.  This uses a ground-switch to turn it on and off.  The wire from the switch has been cut, or it's been replaced and never hooked up.  So I should just need to splice into the two-wire harness from the dome light to add this wire from the ground-switches in the doors.
2. In the process of doing this, when I replaced the missing Fuse for the dome light, the dashboard clock came on!  Whoo Hoo!  BONUS!  (i didn't think that even worked)
3. Hooked up the 12v Tachometer lamp to an ignition switched 12v source at the fuse box.  Now I can see the Tach at night.  Sweet.  LOL